Friday, June 18, 2010
Summer Update!
I made it back alive from the Great Southeast Asia Tour! I am now in the process of going through some 600+ pictures, as well as moving out to Salt Lake City for the summer. I plan on posting a series of blog entries with travel pics and some commentary for each place that I visited, and these will be posted over the course of the summer. Stay tuned for the first post: Hanoi!
Thursday, May 20, 2010
The Great Southeast Asia Tour - Revised Version
Today, RIGHT NOW, was supposed to be the start of my Great Southeast Asian Tour. For those of you not in the know, I finished up work here in Singapore yesterday and am taking three weeks to travel around SEA before returning to the US. I literally have spent months planning this trip and have been looking forward to it immensely. Out of my three weeks, I had planned to spend a week in Thailand, a week in Laos, and a week in Burma* (see end of post). In Thailand, I wanted to visit Bangkok and then Chiang Mai in the north before moving on to Laos. Bangkok went out the window about last weekend due to the continuing violence there. I revised my travel schedule to include a quick transit out of Bangkok without ever coming close to the city center, and stays in Chiang Mai and Chaing Rai (another city in the north). Unfortunately, things took a turn for the worse yesterday afternoon. Although the Red Shirt leaders surrendered to the police and asked the protesters to go home, rioting and looting broke out in central Bangkok. Even worse, riots also broke out in several cities in the north/northeast of Thailand, including Chiang Mai. About half the country is currently under curfew (8 PM - 6 AM until Saturday) and most of the banks and stores in the bigger cities are closed. So, 24 hours before I was supposed to be leaving Singapore for Bangkok, I decided to scratch that part of my trip. Hours of internet searches and about $300 extra later, I now have a revised itinerary that includes KL and Hanoi, and then continues on to Laos and Burma as planned. However, I'm still really incredibly upset that I'm missing out on seeing Thailand, not to mention the extra money I had to spend. I'm still planning to fly through Bangkok on my way to Burma in two weeks from now, and I'm hoping that the city will have calmed down by then. If you want to follow the news in Bangkok, some good (read: not sensationalized or over-simplified) sources are the Bangkok Post for pure news, and Bangkok Pundit for analysis.
So, now for the revised schedule for the Great SEA Tour:
Train to KL from Singapore (this is the main part I'm unhappy about. I don't like KL. It's just like Singapore, only dirtier)
Hanoi (thank you, Vietnamese government, for giving me a visa in less than a day!)
Luang Prabang, Laos
Vientiane, Laos
Transit through Bangkok airport (hopefully the airport stays OK)
Rangoon, Burma
Mandalay, Burma
Back to Rangoon
Fly back to Singapore via Bangkok (again, fingers crossed)
Aaaaand, then I fly home on June 11th!
For the geography challenged among you (no judgment, I'm definitely geography challenged), I've created a little map of my journey. For bonus points, I put the land travel legs (bus/train) in blue and the air travel legs in red. Mandalay, Burma, isn't marked on the map, so it's location is a bit approximate (again, geography challenged here).
There probably won't be a lot of entries in the next few weeks until I make it home to the US, so please be patient with me until then!
*Here's the [star] about Burma. Most people have probably heard about Burma and about Aung San Suu Kyi, who is the most vocal Burmese democracy advocate and gets quite a bit of coverage in the foreign press. She has asked people to avoid traveling to Burma because she believes that it gives tacit approval of the dictatorial military government. However, what the foreign press fails to convey is that Aung San Suu Kyi is not the only democracy advocate in Burma. Many Burmese actively encourage tourists to come to Burma, because the presence of foreign observers limits the human rights offenses that can be committed by the government (at least in plain sight). Additionally, even though the Burmese government does benefit somewhat from my $30 visa fee, there are many many other Burmese people (guesthouse owners, taxi drivers, food sellers, tour guides) that are going to benefit much more from the money that I pay them directly. I'll probably write a lot more on this issue later after my trip, but for I'll just say that I've done massive amounts of research about how to travel ethically in Burma, and I'm confident in my ability to do so.
So, now for the revised schedule for the Great SEA Tour:
Train to KL from Singapore (this is the main part I'm unhappy about. I don't like KL. It's just like Singapore, only dirtier)
Hanoi (thank you, Vietnamese government, for giving me a visa in less than a day!)
Luang Prabang, Laos
Vientiane, Laos
Transit through Bangkok airport (hopefully the airport stays OK)
Rangoon, Burma
Mandalay, Burma
Back to Rangoon
Fly back to Singapore via Bangkok (again, fingers crossed)
Aaaaand, then I fly home on June 11th!
For the geography challenged among you (no judgment, I'm definitely geography challenged), I've created a little map of my journey. For bonus points, I put the land travel legs (bus/train) in blue and the air travel legs in red. Mandalay, Burma, isn't marked on the map, so it's location is a bit approximate (again, geography challenged here).
There probably won't be a lot of entries in the next few weeks until I make it home to the US, so please be patient with me until then!
*Here's the [star] about Burma. Most people have probably heard about Burma and about Aung San Suu Kyi, who is the most vocal Burmese democracy advocate and gets quite a bit of coverage in the foreign press. She has asked people to avoid traveling to Burma because she believes that it gives tacit approval of the dictatorial military government. However, what the foreign press fails to convey is that Aung San Suu Kyi is not the only democracy advocate in Burma. Many Burmese actively encourage tourists to come to Burma, because the presence of foreign observers limits the human rights offenses that can be committed by the government (at least in plain sight). Additionally, even though the Burmese government does benefit somewhat from my $30 visa fee, there are many many other Burmese people (guesthouse owners, taxi drivers, food sellers, tour guides) that are going to benefit much more from the money that I pay them directly. I'll probably write a lot more on this issue later after my trip, but for I'll just say that I've done massive amounts of research about how to travel ethically in Burma, and I'm confident in my ability to do so.
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Even More Siem Reap
OK, time to finish up my posts about my recent trip to Siem Reap. On our third and final day there, we woke up super early to see the sun rise over Angkor Wat. Unfortunately, it turned out to be cloudy that day, so no sunrise. The upside to this was that it was much cooler, which in my opinion was an OK trade! We decided to head out to a temple called Banteay Srei, which was about 30 km away from the main temples. On our way, we stopped at the Pre Rup temple. Pre Rup means "turning the body", which probably references a traditional cremation method. Thus, it is believed that Pre Rup was used for cremations and funerals. Here's a view from the top:
After that, we continued on our way to Banteay Srei, which is one of the most beautiful temples in the entire complex. The temple is built out of pink sandstone, and features many intricate carvings. Banteay Srei means "Citadel of Women", and some people speculate that the incredibly detailed carvings were done by women.
There were lots of monkey and lion statues, who were supposed to be the guardians of the temple. They looked fake and I later read that there were replicas, and that the real ones were in a museum somewhere.
On our way back from Banteay Srei, we stopped at a museum about landmines. The museum was built by a local man who has worked as a de-miner for many years. He started the museum to educate visitors about landmines in Cambodia, since Cambodia has one of the highest concentrations of unexploded ordinances, which are left over from the civil war years. Many of them are still active today, and the founder of the museum also runs a school for children that have been crippled by the landmines. I found the museum to be super interesting, because it exhibited many different kinds of landmines and explained how they work and how to defuse them. Here are just a few of the many landmines that the founder has disabled over the years:
On our way back into town, we visited several other smaller temples. One of these was Eastern Mebon, which was originally built on an island in the middle of a baray, or reservoir. These barays were huge - around 8 km on a side! This temple was interesting because it originally had plaster facades attached to many of the walls. Of course, these are all gone today, but you can still see the holes that were used to attach the plaster.
Another interesting one was the Neak Pean, which was also originally built on an island. This temple had a central shrine surrounded by a pond. The temple also featured fountains in the shapes of elephant, horse, lion and human heads. These fountains were supposed to spout holy water that could cure pilgrims of their ills. Here's the central shrine, which depicts two naga serpents from Hindu and Buddhist mythologies.
The final temple we visited was called Preah Khan, which means "sacred sword". Like Ta Prohm temple, Preah Khan is held together by trees growing inside the temple. I especially though that this decapitated Buddha was a neat example of the power of the jungle:
After a refreshing dip in our hotel's pool, we ate some great tacos at a Mexican restaurant. Normally, I'm pretty dubious of Mexican restaurants in Asia and prefer to avoid them so that I'm not disappointed, but I had heard lots of great reviews of this one from fellow travelers, so we decided to take a chance. It was actually pretty good! Not Antojitos Mexicanos, which is going to be my first stop when I get home to Yakima in a month(!), but not utterly disappointing either. After dinner, we went to an interesting show at a children's hospital in Siem Reap. Every Saturday night, the doctor in charge of the hospital, who is Austrian, plays classical music on his cello and talks about his hospital in hopes of bringing in donations. The music was very nice and I thought it was interesting to hear how he runs the hospital so that all care can be provided for free.
Finally, one last picture, of a packet of banana chips that I bought at the local grocery store:
Future food!
After that, we continued on our way to Banteay Srei, which is one of the most beautiful temples in the entire complex. The temple is built out of pink sandstone, and features many intricate carvings. Banteay Srei means "Citadel of Women", and some people speculate that the incredibly detailed carvings were done by women.
There were lots of monkey and lion statues, who were supposed to be the guardians of the temple. They looked fake and I later read that there were replicas, and that the real ones were in a museum somewhere.
On our way back from Banteay Srei, we stopped at a museum about landmines. The museum was built by a local man who has worked as a de-miner for many years. He started the museum to educate visitors about landmines in Cambodia, since Cambodia has one of the highest concentrations of unexploded ordinances, which are left over from the civil war years. Many of them are still active today, and the founder of the museum also runs a school for children that have been crippled by the landmines. I found the museum to be super interesting, because it exhibited many different kinds of landmines and explained how they work and how to defuse them. Here are just a few of the many landmines that the founder has disabled over the years:
On our way back into town, we visited several other smaller temples. One of these was Eastern Mebon, which was originally built on an island in the middle of a baray, or reservoir. These barays were huge - around 8 km on a side! This temple was interesting because it originally had plaster facades attached to many of the walls. Of course, these are all gone today, but you can still see the holes that were used to attach the plaster.
Another interesting one was the Neak Pean, which was also originally built on an island. This temple had a central shrine surrounded by a pond. The temple also featured fountains in the shapes of elephant, horse, lion and human heads. These fountains were supposed to spout holy water that could cure pilgrims of their ills. Here's the central shrine, which depicts two naga serpents from Hindu and Buddhist mythologies.
The final temple we visited was called Preah Khan, which means "sacred sword". Like Ta Prohm temple, Preah Khan is held together by trees growing inside the temple. I especially though that this decapitated Buddha was a neat example of the power of the jungle:
After a refreshing dip in our hotel's pool, we ate some great tacos at a Mexican restaurant. Normally, I'm pretty dubious of Mexican restaurants in Asia and prefer to avoid them so that I'm not disappointed, but I had heard lots of great reviews of this one from fellow travelers, so we decided to take a chance. It was actually pretty good! Not Antojitos Mexicanos, which is going to be my first stop when I get home to Yakima in a month(!), but not utterly disappointing either. After dinner, we went to an interesting show at a children's hospital in Siem Reap. Every Saturday night, the doctor in charge of the hospital, who is Austrian, plays classical music on his cello and talks about his hospital in hopes of bringing in donations. The music was very nice and I thought it was interesting to hear how he runs the hospital so that all care can be provided for free.
Finally, one last picture, of a packet of banana chips that I bought at the local grocery store:
Future food!
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
More Siem Reap
Picking up where I last left off, Elizabeth and I spent our second day in the town of Siem Reap rather than visiting the temples. In the morning, we took a Khmer cooking class. I learned how to cook mango salad and chicken amok. Mango salad is made from unripe mangoes that are grated together with carrots and bean sprouts. It's pretty spicy due to the large amount of chilies that are added, and is topped off with a peanut/fish sauce. The chicken amok is a traditional Khmer dish made with chicken cooked in a banana leaf with a delicious coconut sauce. The most fun part of cooking the chicken was preparing all the spices - we had to chop up all sorts of different spices like ginger and turmeric and then pound them all together in a huge wooden mortar and pestle! Overall the class was really fun and we got to eat our work at the end. We also got to wear fun cooking hats that looked kind of like pioneer bonnets. I didn't take pictures, but I'll post some if Elizabeth sends them to me (if you're reading this, Elizabeth, can you please send me your pics? The world needs more pictures of me in dorky hats!).
After lunch we took a (free!) shuttle bus out to visit a working silk farm. They took us on a very good tour, which showed us the silk process from beginning to end. We started with the silk worms:
Then we saw how the silk worm cocoons are collected before they are unraveled.
Once the silkworms have spun their cocoons, they are boiled to kill the worm inside, and the cocoons are unraveled.
At this point, our tour guide plucked a dead silk worm out of the pot of boiling water and challenged someone on the tour to eat it. I didn't, but one of the other guys on the tour did. He said that it tasted "like an almond". Once the thread was unraveled from the cocoon, it goes through a series of machines designed to spin several threads together. These machines were so cool! They were huge and old-timey and used smart engineering instead of the digital tricks used by most modern technology.
Finally, the silk threads are dyed and woven together to form things like scarves and ties.
Then, the finished products are sold to tourists at extremely high prices! We successfully resisted the guilt that comes with a free tour and didn't buy anything at the end. I appreciated the very well done tour, but that wasn't worth the price of a $25 scarf.
Later that evening, we watched a free traditional Khmer dancing show at the restaurant where we ate dinner. The schedule for the night's entertainment was very strict:
First, we heard some traditional Khmer music.
Then came the dancing. The coconut dance was a Khmer folk dance in which the dancers clicked together coconut half-shells to accompany their dance. All I could think of during this number was Monty Python and the Holy Grail. Next was the Apsara dance, a typical example of classical Khmer dancing:
I learned about this dance from a Fulbrighter at the conference I attended in Manila in March. She lives in Phnom Penh and studies classical Khmer dance as part of her Fulbright project. She told me that the apsaras are heavenly nymphs. All the movements in the dance are very slow and deliberate and are supposed to mimic the movement of the apsaras. The most important is to "look like you have detached your ribcage from your spine", as she put it. This is supposed to give the impression of a heavenly/otherworldly being. The dancers also do the cool thing where they are able to bend their fingers waaaaay back towards the back of their hand.
So, that was day two. Again, it's late, so day three will wait for another time.
After lunch we took a (free!) shuttle bus out to visit a working silk farm. They took us on a very good tour, which showed us the silk process from beginning to end. We started with the silk worms:
Then we saw how the silk worm cocoons are collected before they are unraveled.
Once the silkworms have spun their cocoons, they are boiled to kill the worm inside, and the cocoons are unraveled.
At this point, our tour guide plucked a dead silk worm out of the pot of boiling water and challenged someone on the tour to eat it. I didn't, but one of the other guys on the tour did. He said that it tasted "like an almond". Once the thread was unraveled from the cocoon, it goes through a series of machines designed to spin several threads together. These machines were so cool! They were huge and old-timey and used smart engineering instead of the digital tricks used by most modern technology.
Finally, the silk threads are dyed and woven together to form things like scarves and ties.
Then, the finished products are sold to tourists at extremely high prices! We successfully resisted the guilt that comes with a free tour and didn't buy anything at the end. I appreciated the very well done tour, but that wasn't worth the price of a $25 scarf.
Later that evening, we watched a free traditional Khmer dancing show at the restaurant where we ate dinner. The schedule for the night's entertainment was very strict:
First, we heard some traditional Khmer music.
Then came the dancing. The coconut dance was a Khmer folk dance in which the dancers clicked together coconut half-shells to accompany their dance. All I could think of during this number was Monty Python and the Holy Grail. Next was the Apsara dance, a typical example of classical Khmer dancing:
I learned about this dance from a Fulbrighter at the conference I attended in Manila in March. She lives in Phnom Penh and studies classical Khmer dance as part of her Fulbright project. She told me that the apsaras are heavenly nymphs. All the movements in the dance are very slow and deliberate and are supposed to mimic the movement of the apsaras. The most important is to "look like you have detached your ribcage from your spine", as she put it. This is supposed to give the impression of a heavenly/otherworldly being. The dancers also do the cool thing where they are able to bend their fingers waaaaay back towards the back of their hand.
So, that was day two. Again, it's late, so day three will wait for another time.
Sunday, May 2, 2010
Siem Reap - Day One
Finally, it's time for some blogging about my trip to Siem Reap to see the Angkor temples. In order to make it on our 6 AM flight out of Singapore, my friend Elizabeth and I left her apartment at 4 in the morning. This was the earliest we got up during the trip, but not by much. After an uneventful flight, we landed in Siem Reap and headed into town on a tuk-tuk. What is a tuk-tuk, you ask? The usage of the term varies widely, but in this part of Cambodia, a tuk-tuk is a small, three-wheeled carriage that is pulled behind a motorbike. They normally have a roof for shade and space for 2-3 people. Here's a picture, courtesy of wikipedia.
After arriving at our hotel, we hired a tuk-tuk for the day and headed out to the temples. First we had to buy an admission ticket - $40 for three days! Quite steep, but I guess if it goes towards preserving the temples, it's ok. The first temple was saw, of course, was Angkor Wat. Angkor Wat is HUGE! The outer walls measure about 1.5 km on each side. In addition, outside the walls is a 200 m wide moat. It's also the single largest religious monument in the world. Construction started in 1113 and took over 30 years to complete. It seems strange, but the temple is actually dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu (the Angkorian kingdom was originally Hindu, but Buddhism took over in the late 12th century). Here's me in front of the main temple!
You can maybe see that I'm a bit sweaty. That's because it was about 100 F and 70% humidity outside. I think it's actually some of the worst heat I've dealt with while in Southeast Asia. It was seriously hot! One of the first things that we saw was crowds of Khmer people taking wedding photos with the temple as a backdrop. They all had on elaborate matching outfits. We sneakily took several pictures:
Around the inner walls of the temple were lots of amazing carvings. They were based on the history of the Khmer kingdom, and also on the Hindu epic of Ramayana. My favorite was called "The Churning of the Ocean of Milk", which is the Hindu creation myth. In this myth, the gods and the demons agreed to work together to churn the ocean of milk for 1000 years. This would create an immortality elixir, which both the gods and the demons were supposed to share. However, at the end of the 1000 years, the gods stole the elixir and didn't give any to the demons. After walking around the inner walls to view the carvings, we went into the very center of the temple, where the highest tower stands. It's quite a climb to the top:
However, we did climb all the way up to the top, from which we had quite a nice view.
After Angkor Wat, we headed to Angkor Thom, which was one of the largest Khmer cities and served as the state capitol in the late 1100s. Apparently it used to house over 1 million people! I thought Angkor Wat was huge, but Angkor Thom was actually bigger. The 8m high outer walls measure 3km on each side! However, the temples inside Angkor Thom are much more spread out than in Angkor Wat. The most famous temple is Bayon. The craziest feature of Bayon are these faces, of which there are 216 of throughout the temple:
The faces probably represent the king who built the temple, Jayavarman VII. As the faces look in all directions, they were supposed to show that the king could watch over all of the kingdom simultaneously. Slightly creepy. After seeing a couple more of the temples within Angkor Thom, we abandoned this temple in favor of a breezy tuk-tuk ride to another location.
Next, we headed to Ta Prohm, one of the most photographed temples. This is because many of the trees growing within the temple have been allowed to remain, making for some very picturesque scenes. It was really interesting to see how the trees had grown in among the stones of the temple.
The trees were enormous! You can see the scale of things in the next picture.
After Ta Prohm, we were too tired to see any more temples. We headed back to our hotel and took full advantage of the hotel's swimming pool. Later that night, we ate some delicious Khmer food for dinner, including a dish called "pumpkin in oven". It was sort of a casserole dish involving pumpkin, egg, shrimps, and some other vegetables. It tasted a lot better than it sounds. After some nighttime shopping, we called it a night (given that we had woken up at 4 AM) and slept for about 12 hours. Speaking of sleeping, time for me to go do some of that right now, so I'll leave this post as just day one. Days two and three coming soon!
PS: exciting news! I just bought my tickets for the Grand Southeast Asia Tour, which commences in three weeks!
After arriving at our hotel, we hired a tuk-tuk for the day and headed out to the temples. First we had to buy an admission ticket - $40 for three days! Quite steep, but I guess if it goes towards preserving the temples, it's ok. The first temple was saw, of course, was Angkor Wat. Angkor Wat is HUGE! The outer walls measure about 1.5 km on each side. In addition, outside the walls is a 200 m wide moat. It's also the single largest religious monument in the world. Construction started in 1113 and took over 30 years to complete. It seems strange, but the temple is actually dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu (the Angkorian kingdom was originally Hindu, but Buddhism took over in the late 12th century). Here's me in front of the main temple!
You can maybe see that I'm a bit sweaty. That's because it was about 100 F and 70% humidity outside. I think it's actually some of the worst heat I've dealt with while in Southeast Asia. It was seriously hot! One of the first things that we saw was crowds of Khmer people taking wedding photos with the temple as a backdrop. They all had on elaborate matching outfits. We sneakily took several pictures:
Around the inner walls of the temple were lots of amazing carvings. They were based on the history of the Khmer kingdom, and also on the Hindu epic of Ramayana. My favorite was called "The Churning of the Ocean of Milk", which is the Hindu creation myth. In this myth, the gods and the demons agreed to work together to churn the ocean of milk for 1000 years. This would create an immortality elixir, which both the gods and the demons were supposed to share. However, at the end of the 1000 years, the gods stole the elixir and didn't give any to the demons. After walking around the inner walls to view the carvings, we went into the very center of the temple, where the highest tower stands. It's quite a climb to the top:
However, we did climb all the way up to the top, from which we had quite a nice view.
After Angkor Wat, we headed to Angkor Thom, which was one of the largest Khmer cities and served as the state capitol in the late 1100s. Apparently it used to house over 1 million people! I thought Angkor Wat was huge, but Angkor Thom was actually bigger. The 8m high outer walls measure 3km on each side! However, the temples inside Angkor Thom are much more spread out than in Angkor Wat. The most famous temple is Bayon. The craziest feature of Bayon are these faces, of which there are 216 of throughout the temple:
The faces probably represent the king who built the temple, Jayavarman VII. As the faces look in all directions, they were supposed to show that the king could watch over all of the kingdom simultaneously. Slightly creepy. After seeing a couple more of the temples within Angkor Thom, we abandoned this temple in favor of a breezy tuk-tuk ride to another location.
Next, we headed to Ta Prohm, one of the most photographed temples. This is because many of the trees growing within the temple have been allowed to remain, making for some very picturesque scenes. It was really interesting to see how the trees had grown in among the stones of the temple.
The trees were enormous! You can see the scale of things in the next picture.
After Ta Prohm, we were too tired to see any more temples. We headed back to our hotel and took full advantage of the hotel's swimming pool. Later that night, we ate some delicious Khmer food for dinner, including a dish called "pumpkin in oven". It was sort of a casserole dish involving pumpkin, egg, shrimps, and some other vegetables. It tasted a lot better than it sounds. After some nighttime shopping, we called it a night (given that we had woken up at 4 AM) and slept for about 12 hours. Speaking of sleeping, time for me to go do some of that right now, so I'll leave this post as just day one. Days two and three coming soon!
PS: exciting news! I just bought my tickets for the Grand Southeast Asia Tour, which commences in three weeks!
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Angkor Wat pictures!
Here's a link to my pictures from my visit to Siem Reap, Cambodia, to see the Angkor temples. Real blog posts to follow!
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
Chinatown
A couple weekends ago (I know, it's been a long time), I paid a visit to Chinatown to buy a set of chopsticks for myself as a souvenir. I found a very nice pair with pretty blue designs on the ends. Unfortunately for you, chopsticks are very hard to take up-close pictures of, so no pictures here.
However, while in Chinatown, I also paid a visit to the Chinatown Heritage Centre, which is a very well done museum about the history of Chinatown. Back in the day (early 1900s), Chinatown used to be quite sketchy - gambling houses, brothels, and opium dens galore! Here's a recreation of a night gone wrong in a gambling den.
Not to worry, it has since cleaned up it's act. Chinatown still exists today because, under British rule, different ethnic groups were only allowed to live in certain areas of the city. Since the ethnic groups were so concentrated for such a long time, several ethnic neighborhoods have retained their character to this day. However, what I didn't know was that Chinatown itself was segregated into separate neighborhoods for immigrants from different parts of China. Most of the Chinese immigrants to Singapore came from Southern China, but they spoke a variety of different languages like Hokkien, Hakka, and Cantonese. So, these groups tended to keep to themselves in different blocks of the Chinatown. Here is a recreation of a clan hall, which were kind of like clubs for the different clans.
The Heritage Centre itself was in an old shophouse that used to house various shops on the ground floor, in addition to living spaces on the upper stories. Many of these shops and living spaces had been recreated, and I thought that this was the most interesting part of the museum. Here is a room where a family of five or six would have lived:
And an outdoor kitchen:
And an old-timey tailor shop!
Another very interesting exhibit in the museum was about the "death houses" that existed during the early 1900s in Chinatown. Since families were packed into such small spaces (see above picture!), it was considered a health hazard to make extra space for sick and dying old people in the family dwelling. So, families would instead send their dying elderly members off to "death houses", where they could lay around with other old people and wait to die. Pretty gruesome! Here's an example of one person's area in a death house.
And one final picture:
You may be wondering what "Bullock Cart Water" is. Well, the name of Chinatown in Mandarin is 牛车水 (niu che shui), which literally means "cow car water". Turns out, in the late 1800s and early 1900s, the water in the Chinatown area was so bad that drinking water had to be brought in from other places on the island. This water was brought in daily on large carts pulled by cows. I learned this in my Chinese class a few months ago after I realized that I knew what 牛车水 meant, but was completely confused as to why the Chinatown MRT stop was called as such, and asked my Chinese teacher. Mystery solved!
However, while in Chinatown, I also paid a visit to the Chinatown Heritage Centre, which is a very well done museum about the history of Chinatown. Back in the day (early 1900s), Chinatown used to be quite sketchy - gambling houses, brothels, and opium dens galore! Here's a recreation of a night gone wrong in a gambling den.
Not to worry, it has since cleaned up it's act. Chinatown still exists today because, under British rule, different ethnic groups were only allowed to live in certain areas of the city. Since the ethnic groups were so concentrated for such a long time, several ethnic neighborhoods have retained their character to this day. However, what I didn't know was that Chinatown itself was segregated into separate neighborhoods for immigrants from different parts of China. Most of the Chinese immigrants to Singapore came from Southern China, but they spoke a variety of different languages like Hokkien, Hakka, and Cantonese. So, these groups tended to keep to themselves in different blocks of the Chinatown. Here is a recreation of a clan hall, which were kind of like clubs for the different clans.
The Heritage Centre itself was in an old shophouse that used to house various shops on the ground floor, in addition to living spaces on the upper stories. Many of these shops and living spaces had been recreated, and I thought that this was the most interesting part of the museum. Here is a room where a family of five or six would have lived:
And an outdoor kitchen:
And an old-timey tailor shop!
Another very interesting exhibit in the museum was about the "death houses" that existed during the early 1900s in Chinatown. Since families were packed into such small spaces (see above picture!), it was considered a health hazard to make extra space for sick and dying old people in the family dwelling. So, families would instead send their dying elderly members off to "death houses", where they could lay around with other old people and wait to die. Pretty gruesome! Here's an example of one person's area in a death house.
And one final picture:
You may be wondering what "Bullock Cart Water" is. Well, the name of Chinatown in Mandarin is 牛车水 (niu che shui), which literally means "cow car water". Turns out, in the late 1800s and early 1900s, the water in the Chinatown area was so bad that drinking water had to be brought in from other places on the island. This water was brought in daily on large carts pulled by cows. I learned this in my Chinese class a few months ago after I realized that I knew what 牛车水 meant, but was completely confused as to why the Chinatown MRT stop was called as such, and asked my Chinese teacher. Mystery solved!
Sunday, April 4, 2010
Malapascua Island
Picking up where my last post left off, my friend Clayton and I headed for the Manila airport at about 2:30 AM for our 4:30 AM flight to Cebu City. Oddly, the domestic terminal was bustling even at this early hour! Also odd was that the plane for our flight from Manila to Cebu City was larger than the plane that we flew in on from Singapore, and Philippines Airlines offers maybe five of these flights per day. After a quick one hour flight, we arrived in Cebu City and grabbed a cab to the bus station. Our destination was Maya, on the northern tip of Cebu island, a four hour bus ride away. The sun came up super early, since it was already light when our bus left at 6 AM:
This bus ride was reminiscent of many of the bus rides that I took in Nicaragua - bumpy, crowded, and very windy due to lack of air-conditioning. However, I actually enjoy these types of bus rides, since they always bring some adventure into the trip. For example, at one point on this particular bus trip, the bus driver braked too sharply, igniting a small but very smoky fire under one of the rear wheels. The passengers, rather than looking at all surprised, patiently filed off the bus and took the bus's mechanical difficulties as an opportunity for a bathroom break in the nearby fields. After about 15 minutes, the bus was sufficiently repaired (by sufficiently, I mean probably not at all, but it's not like we had a choice) and we all piled back on and made it to Maya. From Maya, we then took a ferry to get to our final destination, Malapascua Island.
Malapascua is super small and, as yet, not as touristy as some of the other nearby islands around the main island of Cebu. We stayed at a very small beach cottage - here's the view from our front porch.
The first day, we mostly just napped, explored the island, and went swimming. I made plans to dive in the morning, but then didn't end up going because I was feeling poorly when I woke up. I spent the morning sleeping in, but Clayton walked around the entire island. It's so small that walking the entire circumference takes only about 2-3 hours. That afternoon, we did some snorkeling. The first issue with this snorkeling trip was that the spot recommended to us was on the other side of the island and we didn't really want to walk all that way. The dive shop suggested that we take a motorbike. The second problem was that we didn't know how to get to the snorkel spot, so we required a driver for said motorbike. Unfortunately, only one driver/motorbike showed up. So, we had the pleasant experience of fitting three full-sized adults onto one tiny motorbike. After that experience (and me being smooshed in the middle), I had huge amounts of respect for anyone who manages to fit more than three people onto a motorbike (a common sight in Southeast Asia). But, we made it to the snorkel spot, and saw lots of neat sea animals, like sea urchins, corals, sea stars, and small schools of fish.
The next day, I woke up super early to go on a 5 AM dive at Monad Shoal, a spot off the coast famous for thresher shark sighting. Normally, the sharks stay below 100 ft, but in the early mornings they come up to about 60 ft so that small organisms will clean them. Here's what thresher sharks look like:
(Note: none of the following underwater pictures are actually mine, just illustrative examples). I was diving with the divemaster and two friendly Dutch people who are dive instructors in Thailand. Although I was a little nervous about seeing sharks, I definitely felt better with three very veteran divers alongside! We descended just as the sun was coming up, and we immediately saw a shark, very close up! It was only about 5 m away from us and lazily swam in a half circle around our group before swimming away! The Dutch couple had an underwater camera and actually got a picture of the shark, but I haven't gotten it from them yet. After that first shark sighting, we mostly just swam slowly around the bottom hoping that other sharks would appear. We had one more sighting later in the dive, but not nearly as stunning as the first one. Apparently we were super lucky to get two shark sighting in one dive, and even luckier that both were quite close up. I was completely satisfied and felt really awesome for conquering my nervousness and diving with sharks!
After returning to the island, I had some delicious breakfast with Clayton on our beachfront porch, then we headed back to the dive shop for another dive. While Clayton snorkeled on the surface, I dove with the same divemaster around a small rock island just off the coast called Lapus Lapus. I got a chance to see some smaller ocean life, like a tiny blue ringed octopus. This guy was cool because he didn't look like anything at all until disturbed, at which point his brown skin turned beautifully blue!
We also saw several frogfish hiding under ledges. They mostly just looked liked blobs, and I don't think I would have noticed them if the divemaster hadn't pointed them out.
Overall, another awesome dive. After two dives, I was really tired out, so I took a quality nap in one of the hammocks provided by the hostel. Later that day, we ate dinner at a massive buffet with all different types of Western, Asian, and Filipino food and enjoyed our last night of cheap beer.
Starting early the next morning, we made our airplane-bus-ferry journey in reverse (no smoking buses this time). Funnily enough, the divemaster from the day earlier was also on the ferry and the bus, as he was going to visit his family in Cebu City. He was a bit surprised that we were taking the cheap, non aircon bus - apparently most foreigners take the nice, aircon minivans, but where would the fun be in that?!?
All in all, the trip was a lot of fun and it was very relaxing to be away from Singapore for a week. I'll leave you with this picture of a billboard that I spotted in Cebu City:
Corned tuna - a truly romantic food!
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Manila
So, I'm finally getting around to writing about my recent trip to the Philippines. First of all, the Philippines in general was really awesome. I think this is mostly because being in the Philippines didn't feel like being in Asia anymore, it really felt more like being in Central/South America. A refreshing change!
The entire trip consisted of several days in Manila for a conference with all the other Southeast Asia Fulbrighters, then a quick hop down to the island of Cebu for some island vacationing with my friend and fellow Fulbrighter Clayton. Because I know you'll all (all five or so of you) be waiting on the edge of your seats to hear about the trip, I'm going to split it up into two parts just to up the suspense factor.
First, Manila. This city is crazy. Metro Manila actually consists of 16 cities - it's huge! The first thing I experience about Manila is the traffic. Often, taxi rides of 10km take up to 1.5 hours! Remember those pictures of motorbike traffic from Vietnam? Well, the traffic in Manila is similar, except all the motorbikes are replaced with cars, jeepneys, and buses. What are jeepneys, you ask? Well...
Jeepneys were adapted from American army jeeps and are one of the more common methods of public transportation in Manila. They are always brightly and individually decorated!
The conference was held in a branch of the ShangriLa Hotel. This was by far the nicest hotel I've ever stayed in. The most remarkable thing about the hotel was the breakfast/lunch buffet at the hotel restaurant. It was HUGE! Every type of food you could want - Indian food for breakfast, an entire roasted pig for lunch, handmade sushi, and (I was particularly excited about this one) an excellent salad bar! The dessert area was completely out of control - after surveying an entire area of delicious looking Western desserts and selecting a few, I turned around to find an equally large area of Filipino desserts!
I really enjoyed the opportunity to meet all the other Fulbrighters - everyone in the group was really interesting and accomplished (besides the Fulbright, I mean). Seriously, compared to some of the people there, I felt quite boring! Everyone was asked to give a short presentation about their grant research/work and these turned out to be way more interesting than I expected. Not to be a science snob, but at the beginning of the conference I wasn't super excited to listen to two days of presentations about humanities/social sciences research. But here I was pleasantly surprised, because I found many of the topics to be very interesting. Random examples include studies of female Muai Thai fighters, traditional Khmer dance, and reporting and ethics on the Thai/Burma border.
On Friday afternoon, a couple others and I skipped the scheduled cultural activity (museum trip) and headed out on our own to visit Intramuros, one of the cities within Metro Manila. Intramuros was the headquarters of the old Spanish colonial government and the site of the ruins of the Spanish fort. First, we visited the San Augustin Church, built in 1607. It's survived various earthquakes as well as WWII (no small feat, considering that Manila was the second-most bombed city in WWII).
Next we visited the Manila Cathedral; this church is not as exciting since it's been destroyed and rebuilt several times. The most recent version was built after WWII.
At the cathedral, we sampled some Manila street food: fried bananas on a stick. I think they had also been coating in sugar. They were kind of delicious. Then I spotted on of the guards at Fort Santiago, and had to take a picture of him.
The strange part was that he seemed confused about why I wanted to take his picture - surely this must happen pretty often?!? We then headed to the fort. Here's the entrance archway.
Over the arch is a wooden carving of Santiago Matamoros, the patron saint of Spain. In case you're wondering what "Matamoros" means, it literally means "kill Moros" (Moros is the traditional Spanish word for Muslims, or more specifically North African Muslims). Very cheery art. The park outside the fort was quite nice, though.
The conference ended on Friday evening with a reception featuring native Filipino music played by a very cheery and skillful group. They played xylophone-like instruments as well as big Pan pipes. They also danced around while playing said instruments. It was impressive. However, I headed to bed early since our flight to Cebu was leaving at 4:30 AM the next morning!
The entire trip consisted of several days in Manila for a conference with all the other Southeast Asia Fulbrighters, then a quick hop down to the island of Cebu for some island vacationing with my friend and fellow Fulbrighter Clayton. Because I know you'll all (all five or so of you) be waiting on the edge of your seats to hear about the trip, I'm going to split it up into two parts just to up the suspense factor.
First, Manila. This city is crazy. Metro Manila actually consists of 16 cities - it's huge! The first thing I experience about Manila is the traffic. Often, taxi rides of 10km take up to 1.5 hours! Remember those pictures of motorbike traffic from Vietnam? Well, the traffic in Manila is similar, except all the motorbikes are replaced with cars, jeepneys, and buses. What are jeepneys, you ask? Well...
Jeepneys were adapted from American army jeeps and are one of the more common methods of public transportation in Manila. They are always brightly and individually decorated!
The conference was held in a branch of the ShangriLa Hotel. This was by far the nicest hotel I've ever stayed in. The most remarkable thing about the hotel was the breakfast/lunch buffet at the hotel restaurant. It was HUGE! Every type of food you could want - Indian food for breakfast, an entire roasted pig for lunch, handmade sushi, and (I was particularly excited about this one) an excellent salad bar! The dessert area was completely out of control - after surveying an entire area of delicious looking Western desserts and selecting a few, I turned around to find an equally large area of Filipino desserts!
I really enjoyed the opportunity to meet all the other Fulbrighters - everyone in the group was really interesting and accomplished (besides the Fulbright, I mean). Seriously, compared to some of the people there, I felt quite boring! Everyone was asked to give a short presentation about their grant research/work and these turned out to be way more interesting than I expected. Not to be a science snob, but at the beginning of the conference I wasn't super excited to listen to two days of presentations about humanities/social sciences research. But here I was pleasantly surprised, because I found many of the topics to be very interesting. Random examples include studies of female Muai Thai fighters, traditional Khmer dance, and reporting and ethics on the Thai/Burma border.
On Friday afternoon, a couple others and I skipped the scheduled cultural activity (museum trip) and headed out on our own to visit Intramuros, one of the cities within Metro Manila. Intramuros was the headquarters of the old Spanish colonial government and the site of the ruins of the Spanish fort. First, we visited the San Augustin Church, built in 1607. It's survived various earthquakes as well as WWII (no small feat, considering that Manila was the second-most bombed city in WWII).
Next we visited the Manila Cathedral; this church is not as exciting since it's been destroyed and rebuilt several times. The most recent version was built after WWII.
At the cathedral, we sampled some Manila street food: fried bananas on a stick. I think they had also been coating in sugar. They were kind of delicious. Then I spotted on of the guards at Fort Santiago, and had to take a picture of him.
The strange part was that he seemed confused about why I wanted to take his picture - surely this must happen pretty often?!? We then headed to the fort. Here's the entrance archway.
Over the arch is a wooden carving of Santiago Matamoros, the patron saint of Spain. In case you're wondering what "Matamoros" means, it literally means "kill Moros" (Moros is the traditional Spanish word for Muslims, or more specifically North African Muslims). Very cheery art. The park outside the fort was quite nice, though.
The conference ended on Friday evening with a reception featuring native Filipino music played by a very cheery and skillful group. They played xylophone-like instruments as well as big Pan pipes. They also danced around while playing said instruments. It was impressive. However, I headed to bed early since our flight to Cebu was leaving at 4:30 AM the next morning!
Monday, March 29, 2010
Sunday, March 28, 2010
Greg Mortenson!
Today, I got the chance to attend a talk given by Greg Mortenson, the director of an NGO that builds schools in Pakistan and Afghanistan. He's written two books about his works, called Three Cups of Tea and Stones Into Schools. His story is pretty crazy and the books are very interesting to read. I learned a lot about the Middle East and the causes of fundamental Islamic movements through the two books. Mr. Mortenson was speaking at an International Baccalaureate conference here in Singapore. I initially started out just trying to talk the IB Organization into allowing me to come hear his talk, but ended up giving a thank you/closing speech after the talk as well! Later, I got to meet Mr. Mortenson:
Exciting!
Exciting!
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